Alta via 1 – Day 2
Hiking the Italian Dolomites
- Rifugio Sennes to Rifguio Fanes
- 9.8km
- 7 hours
- 13, 042 steps
- 2,663 calories
- Ascent 1109
- Descent 1182
- Max elevation 2134m
Views, views and more views! Well you could say that about any day hiking in the Dolomites. They just keep unfolding before your eyes.
We set out from Rifugio Sennes, along with all the other hikers, at about 8.30am. We felt a bit sore but mostly pretty good. The previous day Steve was having some thigh pain, but it disappeared on day 2. I was getting a few twangy things happening in my legs. It’s funny how it plays on your mind. We were walking along thinking we were doomed to torture for the next several days, but each little niggle worked its way out in short order. Luckily we didn’t experience any major injuries for this trip.


We followed a dirt road for a while: a little too long actually, when Steve’s Garmin beeped at him and we realised we had missed a turn off to the left. We followed this downhill for a couple of km, were joined by a herd of cows, and soon reached Rifugio Fodara Vedla. All their customers had left for the day, and the staff were washing the sheets, ready for the next round of guests that night. We topped up our water in their water trough.



The first half of this day was characterised by down hill walking, for the most part. After Fodara Vedla we pressed on to Rifugio Pederu, following a rough mountain track for a while, which included passing a mule that was bringing supplies up the mountain to the rifugio. The track opened out to a very long steep road. We passed Tanji and Kent who were resting half way down the hill. Can’t say I blame them – it was a strain on the knees!



We stopped at Rifugio Pederu and relaxed in the sun for lunch. Tanji and Kent caught up with us and we enjoyed a meal together. The afternoon walk, could be characterised as mostly…uphill. Steve got stung on his leg by a bee. Lucky he isn’t allergic and it didn’t seem to bother him too much.


Half way up the hill we passed Tanji and Kent again. They diagnosed Steve as not being in anaphylactic shock, probably because he was powering up the hill like the Terminator. Mountain rescue not required!


We arrived at Rifugio Fanes to find that I booked one of the nicest rooms and I LOVED it. This was my favourite rifugio. The room was pricey, but you get what you pay for: it was large, a nice private bathroom, and a great view. I found out too late that the tent outside was a yoga yurt, and I was bummed to miss the daily yoga class. I used the laundry facilities, so all my clothes were nice and clean.



This rifugio has a resident cat that hangs out on a cosy platform built above the enclosed fireplace. The cat patiently endures pats and chin scritches. We joined Tanji and Kent for dinner, along with another nice American couple, Joy and Dan, who we would see a few more times on this trip.


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