Fairy Bower Falls and Bundanoon Creek via Tooths
Lookout Trail | 6km loop | Very Hard
This was the most ambitious walk we did during our weekend camping and exploring Morton National Park. There are lots of other shorter walks available and the park has more than its fair share of lookouts with beautiful views. Read more about Morton NP here.
Parking the car at Tooths Lookout we took the short track down to admire the sweeping views over the valley and wondered how serious the warning signs for our planned walk were. ‘Not for the faint hearted’ is how the walk is advertised by NSW National Parks, which made me smile. Deciding our hearts were probably in good working order we agreed we would give it a go. If anyone in our group felt they had reached their limit we would all turn back while we still had the energy to make the climb out.
We also had choices along the way. The track from Tooths lookout to Bundanoon Creek is about 1.5km but halfway down there is another track that runs along the valley to Fairy Bower Falls. If the climb back up the escarpment was too much, or the walk down to the creek was too much, we have this as an alternative.
The first section of the walk, from the lookout, is called Cliff Track and is exactly that. Pretty much straight down the escarpment that had afforded us those spectacular views. The track descends steeply into the valley down rough stone steps interspersed with sections of zig zagging track down the cliff. Can’t say I was particularly keen on walking back up here.
After clambering off the escarpment we passed the intersection with the track to the falls, and continued zigzagging downhill to the creek. From Tooths Lookout to the bottom of the valley felt a lot longer than its 1.5km, not one for the inexperienced bushwalker. The track was steep but easy enough to follow, although overgrown in places as not too many people venture down this way – we didn’t see any other walkers on this part of the track. It was worth the effort though, we reached the bottom of the valley where the creek widens into a clear pool surrounded by sunlit sandstone and forest that reflects in the tranquil water. Downstream of the water hole the creek flows around large boulders to continue its journey through the valley. The perfect place to pull up a rock and have some lunch while enjoying the peace.
After our rest we began the first ‘up’ part of the walk. Winding our way back up the hill we opted for the right hand turn at the side track across to Fairy Bower Falls. The track undulates along the side of the valley with a few muddy patches and disconcertingly the occasional ‘Do not stop’ sign warning us of the possibility of falling rocks. Scrub turns into rainforest and then opens up into a clearing at the base of a two-tiered waterfall. The water tumbles onto a rock ledge and into a pool surrounded by mossy rocks and ferns. You can walk around to the side waterfall and up to the cascading water. A great spot to rest and cool off on a hot day.
When you have had your fill of peace and beauty, cross over the creek and go up the metal stairs to the right of the falls. The cliffs overhead are covered with moss, ferns and curtains of tree roots hanging down. They are dripping with moisture and look like they might be a good spot to find glow worms (See other glow worms in the area). Looking towards the top of the falls you can see the original steps carved into the sandstone cliff.
The new and improved track to the top of the falls follows the base of the cliffs to the right (another ‘do not stop’ area) and climbs up the escarpment with a couple of well placed lookouts to admire the view and catch your breath. When you reach a large rock platform with a small stream, take the track to the left which leads to the top of the waterfall. Slippery stone stairs go down to a little lookout on the top of the cliff where the stream winds between boulders before plunging over the edge. From here you can see the top of those stone steps we saw earlier, and The Brides Lookout where apparently honeymooners of days gone by would pose for photos, it would have been quite a walk in long dresses and petticoats!
The walk back up to the main track and continue uphill to the Fairy Bower Falls Carpark then back down the road to the car at Tooths Lookout. A difficult but rewarding walk, with plenty of up and down to get your heart racing. Make sure you have good walking shoes, lots of water and pack some lunch to enjoy at the creek.
